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Adventures of an American woman in Wroclaw

«I am leaving the airport, looking out of the taxi window, and realising that this new city will change me». Emma Poper - a student from the USA studying journalism. For the upcoming semester, she will be living in Wroclaw, discovering not only a new city but also the culture of the European continent, as well as the traditions and customs of the Polish people

Emma Poper

Wroclaw will be a new page in the life of a student from the USA

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In America, a student's semester abroad is expected to be one of the most life-changing experiences a college student can have. You are told by your Grandparents, Aunts, friends, and even the weird neighbour down the street how meaningful their semester abroad was, or if they didn’t go abroad they will tell you how much they envy your life and the adventures you will go on. Suffice it to say, much anticipation goes into four months in a foreign country.

As I get ready to leave for Poland I can’t help but wonder; am I supposed to come back as a different person after these four months?

I blow kisses toward my parents as I cross the boundary toward security; knowing the next time we talk I’ll be alone in Poland in a brand new dorm room.

I rouse from my forced sleep after twenty-four hours of travel. I opened my eyes and looked out the window to see farmland zoom by us as the plane hit the tarmac. We landed in Wroclaw, Poland. My new home for the next four months.

Through the window of a taxi, I get my first glimpses of my new home. I grew up in a small town in Colorado, the four walls of my home were the mountains that surrounded our quant valley.

As I look out the window I can tell easily that this city was going to be a big change
Wroclaw spires

As I settle into my bed ready to let the exhaustion of travel rock me to sleep, I begin to toss and turn. My windows were open because of the heat. Through the windows, the noise of the city reaches my ears. Cars honk at each other, dogs bark, and I can feel the vibration of the trams as they move back and forth along their rails. At home, I am met with crickets and the occasional car, but here in the centre of this new city, a cacophony of noise reaches my ears as I try to fall asleep.

I wake up to a different world. Everything here seems to be just a little bit upside down and topsy-turvy

There are two duvet blankets on my bed instead of the standard one. Next to my bed, the outlets are completely different, I mean why can’t we just standardize plugs? Everyone has the same type of phone anyway? We standardized watts and electricity. Why can’t we standardize outlets? Walking outside of my dorm building I find a brightly lit neon green sign. What even is a Zabka? Next thing I know they are absolutely everywhere. Every one-hundred feet I find another one of these brightly lit stores.

After getting my Urban Card for transportation I got on my first tram. When I hop on there is no one to check my card. To my absolute surprise, I learned that I probably won’t have my transportation card checked for months. I guess the honour system is in full effect here.

The history of Wroclaw spans over more than 1000 years

I don’t think I’ve ever lived anywhere with so much history. In the first week of my education in Poland, I learned about medieval kingdoms that divided the land of Poland during the 17th century, and how eighty per cent of the city I live in now was turned to rubble during the end of the Second World War. Wherever I step in this new city I feel like I’m treading on history and walking through ghosts of the past. I don’t feel like the city is haunted, but I feel like the city's bricks reach out to me in an effort to not be forgotten.

Some things do stay the same though. In cities, there is still immense amounts of traffic. Just like in New York City, people keep their heads down as they move through the streets; never stopping to greet someone. The trivial things like bed sheets and outlets feel completely different, but the human experience stays the same.

Getting adjusted to a new city is always a difficult task, however, as I lay in my bed I feel myself being lulled to sleep by the now comforting sounds of the city outside my window
In Wroclaw, the modern is organically combined with the historical

I’m excited to adventure throughout Poland and I am starting to feel open to letting myself have my life changed by this place.

All photos by the author

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An intern student from the United States currently studying in Wrocław. In the USA, she studies broadcast and digital journalism and history at Syracuse University. She aspires to become an international journalist and documentarian. She has worked with the World War II Foundation and is currently an intern at the publication Sestry.eu in Poland.

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German Chancellor Olaf Scholz called Putin for the first time in two years. He seeks to win early elections and salvage his career, which is rapidly deteriorating. Moreover, there is an increasing number of articles in German media suggesting that the politician aims to conduct an election campaign for his party at Ukraine’s expense. Its main message: by not providing the Ukrainian Armed Forces with Taurus missiles, Germany averted a Third World War.

Such behaviour from a country that essentially nurtured modern Russia provokes irritation and hatred among Ukrainians

It matters little that Mr Scholz is in his final months as Chancellor. This bias against Ukraine is linked to the traumas of German society from the two World Wars, in which Germans were the aggressors, ravaging their neighbours.

I asked several people who have lived in Germany for a long time, understand its internal dynamics, and are actively involved in political processes, why Scholz places so much faith in the success of his phone calls with Putin. «Scholz and his party are not heartless or greedy scoundrels seeking to exploit others. On the contrary - unlike Ukrainian politicians, they hold ideological convictions. They are deeply convinced that their mission is to prevent Germany from scoring a hat-trick by starting a Third World War. After all, Berlin officially initiated the last two world wars. They firmly believe that preserving Germany and the lives of millions of Germans through non-involvement in wars with Russia and China is the way forward. For this, they are willing to endure any shame, condemnation, and hatred from the entire world. What’s more, they even see themselves as martyrs enduring hardships for others», a German citizen who supported the Social Democratic Party in the last two elections assured me.

Scholz: The conversation with Putin was not pleasant. Photo: Markus Schreiber/Associated Press/East News

Let us add to this the fears of German politicians following Donald Trump’s victory and the Republican success in the US elections. Comments from Washington, urging European countries to be more generous with security subscriptions in NATO, are growing louder.

Berlin knows these primarily concern itself, as for the last quarter of a century, Germans have built their economy on two factors - the US nuclear umbrella and cheap Russian gas

German politicians themselves nurtured the monster in human form. Therefore, it is unsurprising that former Chancellor Angela Merkel decided to rehabilitate her own reputation and that of the political elites by presenting memoirs claiming that Germany never liked Putin. It just happened that the gas deals she made with Russia were intended to benefit German companies but inadvertently gave Moscow strong confidence that Europe was no longer a serious contender.

The public behaviour of the current Chancellor Scholz and Merkel’s return to the spotlight show how modern Germany seeks to evade responsibility for its friendship with the aggressor

Germany is attempting to wriggle out of the situation again, especially as the German opposition has started suggesting the need to listen more to the US and mend relations with Trump.

Putin and Merkel in Moscow, August 2021. Photo: ALEXANDER ZEMLIANICHENKO/AFP/East News

Deep historical anti-Americanism has also led Scholz to humiliate himself on the phone with Putin. Meanwhile, the Kremlin dwarf, just days later, demonstratively bombards civilian districts near Ukraine’s borders. Putin shows he will not engage with those he does not respect, those who cannot decisively oppose him.

In Moscow’s ideal scenario, Putin and Donald Trump meet in a luxurious chalet in the Alps and divide the world between the two of them - perhaps three, taking China’s interests into account. However, Putin realises Germany is in deep crisis and will remain politically stagnant until spring, when a new coalition forms there. He will use this interim period for front-line escalation, blackmail, and actively terrorising Western societies with nuclear scare tactics. The question «Is Ukraine worth a Third World War?» will become part of the game.

I have an answer to this question. When the Third Reich attacked Gdańsk, justifying it as protecting German-speaking populations, few wanted to die for Poland’s interests. Even more citizens of Western states did not believe that Adolf Hitler, a seasoned infantryman from the First World War who had himself nearly died in a gas attack, would desire another world war.

However, very soon, Hitler and Stalin were dividing Poland between them - while in Soviet prisons, the flower of the Polish army was being executed, and Germans were gleefully burning Jews in Auschwitz

Nobody wanted the Second World War, thinking constructive relations with the Nazis would save them from occupation. Yet soon enough, Hitler was posing for photos under the Eiffel Tower, and his officers were downing reserves of Cointreau in French bars. Efforts to find peace with Hitler led to a situation where everyone went to war, and in the end, bombs destroyed not only Gdańsk and Warsaw.

After the Third Reich signed its surrender, Germans had to undergo denazification and pay reparations to all whose lives they had ruined. When it comes to Russia, it aims to pay no one, win the war at any cost, and, after a short pause, continue its occupation and genocide. This is the moment when the student - a simple KGB operative - surpassed his teacher, who ended his disgrace as a man by shooting himself in a bunker.

This project is co-financed by the Polish-American Freedom Foundation as part of the «Support Ukraine» programme, implemented by the Education for Democracy Foundation

20
хв

Calls to the dictator. Why is Putin laughing at Scholz’s phone diplomacy?

Maryna Danyliuk-Yarmolayeva
girl, city, nostalgia

For the longest time it has been my dream to move to America but after living there for three years, I decided to move back to Poland. Just like my parents, I thought that living in America was going to offer me this big American dream, but that was not the case. I think due to the ways in which America is portrayed, I had this preconceived notion of what my life is going to look like but I was unaware of the jarring realisations that come with moving to the West. 

When I got there I wouldn't say that I missed my old life in Poland. Everything felt new and exciting and I felt like «I made it» but the longer I spent time in the US the more I realised the sad realities of America. Life in the East is highly focused on community: I know my neighbours, I get my fruits and vegetables from a local market stand, my friends buy me beers when I’m out of cash, but my experience in America was the complete opposite of that. Unless you’re in a borough where you grew up or have built a community, all your experiences are transactional. I found myself thinking that I’m forming a relationship with someone to quickly later on finding that they wanted something from me, blurring the line whether friendships can exist outside of work or status.

What was the most difficult for me when I was there was really understanding my identity in the realm of the US

In America, I am perceived as a white girl and my identity as a Polish person is not necessarily considered unless I bring it up in a conversation. This was really difficult for me to understand because I feel like I'm coming from a country that focuses on identity so much. I felt like that was just being stripped away. I couldn't really identify myself with where I lay in the US. Should I be considered an immigrant or should I be considered a Polish American? It was really unclear for me. I was aware of the privileges that I have in America due to being a white woman but I couldn’t identify or relate to the white American women around me.

Photo: Shutterstock

I didn't really feel at home there unless I was in a neighbourhood such as Greenpoint where I was able to socialise with Polish people, and when it came to my university, I only met one other Polish person. It wasn't until I became friends with a Ukrainian guy who came from an immigrant family. He understood exactly what I was talking about. The Americans only perceived him as a white boy and he was unable to identify with white American men either. We would discuss our similarities and differences of being Polish and Ukrainian and the terror that's happening in the world right now that most of our peers in America seemed to ignore. I think that America is so centralised in its country and politics that a lot of issues outside that don’t concern people there just seem to be irrelevant and I think especially when you are an immigrant you can find yourself feeling lost. 

That friend of mine made me realise how much I miss my country and how much I miss my community because he was the closest to what felt like a community to me in America. It's a weird experience to be an Eastern European because, on one hand, most Eastern European countries have been historically oppressed but on the other hand, you do carry the privilege of being a white person and should hold yourself accountable for having that privilege. 

It's just not talked about enough how much history affected Eastern European countries and especially in the West I don't see many people being aware of what happened.

I remember how in one of my classes an American kid didn’t even know about what’s happening in Ukraine. «What war?» they said and I couldn’t believe what I was hearing

I got so angry, how can one not know? Everything there is centralised in their country, excluding anything that doesn’t focus on it or on their ideals of individualism. I couldn't take it anymore - «America this, America that», - no news about another country, while their country is one responsible for most war crimes in the world and is simultaneously one able to stop these wars.

Photo: Shutterstock

In New York, I lived in the Ukrainian neighbourhood of the East Village, hoping it would bring me a sense of peace. Instead, I found it felt rather fabricated. I didn’t hear any Ukrainian on the streets, and most of the neighbourhood seemed to be gentrified by hipster white Americans and students looking for affordable housing. I often found myself wondering what this meant for those who once called the neighbourhood home.

The contrast between the original culture and the modern, more commercialised environment evoked a sense of nostalgia for what was lost, which was only enhanced by what is happening in Ukraine right now

Similarly, I saw the same thing taking place in Greenpoint. What was once known as a thriving Polish neighbourhood was no longer the same. Each month I’d go - another restaurant would get shut down and another person I’d known would move out since they could no longer afford it. What struck me most was the change in the people around me. Many residents who lived there for a long time were being pushed out due to rising rents, and the cultural landscape I had initially felt in a way at home, began to feel more homogenised. Both Ukrainian and Polish communities were pushed out of neighbourhoods they once considered their own, now they move a couple miles further away from Manhattan to another neighbourhood they will call home until it happens again. 

All my time while I was in America I questioned: why not choose the calmer, community life? Why is this the dream? Feeling isolated in the four walls of my New York apartment, waking up every day to the loud noises outside, seeing faces I don’t recognise every day. Why not move back home and have community, support and a sense of safety? I realised that as I was complaining about all of this I only had one option. I packed my things and I left. My dream is not to be surrounded by shiny things and a job that boosts my sense of self. I want to feel like I belong somewhere, a place where neighbours say hi to each other, a place where others take care of each other, a place we can call home.

20
хв

Why I am coming back East

Melania Krych

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